How to Spot Quality Clothes in a Charity Shop: Finding Real Treasure Among a Sea of Second-Hand Rails
Posted by Victoria Lochhead on
There are two kinds of people in a charity shop. The first walks in, flicks through a couple of rails, shrugs and says, "There's never anything in here." The second sees possibility everywhere.
I'm firmly in the second camp.
People often ask me how I manage to find such lovely pieces in charity shops, jumble sales and online marketplaces. The truth is, I'm not especially lucky. I've just trained my eye to spot quality.
Once you know what you're looking for, shopping second-hand becomes less about hunting for bargains and much more about discovering treasure. And trust me, there is treasure out there.
You just have to know where to look.

Not Everything Preloved is Treasure
Let's start with a little reality check. Charity shops and online marketplaces are absolutely full of clothes. But not all clothes are created equal.
There are rails full of supermarket brands, fast fashion pieces and garments that were never designed to last more than a couple of seasons. There's nothing wrong with that if they suit your needs, but they're rarely the pieces that make my heart beat a little faster.
I'm looking for beautifully made clothes that have years of life left in them.
The sort of pieces that feel wonderful to wear and quietly stand the test of time. I'm also looking for something that is just right for me - the right colour, a print I love, a great shape or the perfect thing to fill a gap in my wardrobe.
Those are the treasures worth waiting for.
My First Clue Isn't the Label...
People are often surprised when I tell them that I rarely look at the brand first. I touch the fabric. Fabric tells you so much.
Does it feel soft?
Does it have a lovely weight to it?
Does it drape beautifully?
Does it look as fresh as when it was first made?
Natural fibres such as linen, wool, silk and cotton often have a quality that you can literally feel before you've even looked at the label.
Over the years I've learnt to trust my fingertips.

Treasure Hunter's Tale
A few years ago I spotted a pair of olive suede sandals in a charity shop. Nothing about them screamed "designer". What caught my attention was the suede. When I picked it up, it felt beautifully soft, and the shoes were exceptionally well made.
Only then did I turn them over to discover they were a brand new pair of Salvatore Ferragamo sandals. The price? £5.
That's the kind of treasure I'm talking about.
Turn the Garment Inside Out
One of the quickest ways to judge quality is to look where most people never think to look - inside. Well-made clothes are often just as beautiful on the inside as they are on the outside.
Look for:
• Neat, even stitching
• Finished seams, especially rare seams like a french seam or a bound seam
• Pattern matching
• Proper hems or hand finished hems
• A quality lining that hangs well - especially if the lining is silk
The inside of a garment tells you a lot about the care that went into making it. It's a bit like looking behind the scenes or under the bonnet of a car.
Learn to Recognise Good Brands
Having a few favourite brands can make second-hand shopping much easier. Not because they're expensive, but because you already know they suit you.
For me, one of those brands is Wrap London. I love their relaxed, bohemian styling, beautiful prints and use of natural fabrics. If I'm browsing on Vinted or eBay, I'll often search specifically for Wrap London because I already know there's a good chance I'll like both the quality and the fit.
Over time you'll probably build your own list too. Perhaps it's a favourite designer, maybe Jaeger, NRBY, Hobbs or another brand that consistently works for you.
Knowing your favourites helps you shop with confidence instead of feeling overwhelmed.
Having said all that, sometimes a completely unknown brand can throw up a real treasure. I once picked up a dress from a brand I'd never heard of, but loved the print and on closer investigation found it was a pure silk maxi dress. It was a great fit and colour for me. It pays sometimes if you are drawn to something to bypass the label altogether and just try it on.

Use All Your Senses
My family find this highly amusing...
I'm often spotted sniffing handbags at jumble sales. Why? Because leather usually smells like... well... leather! It's not a foolproof test, but after years of handling bags and shoes you soon learn to recognise the difference.
One of my favourite finds was a beautiful leather Per Una handbag that cost just 20p! That bag has now been with me for around fifteen years and still looks wonderful.

Sometimes quality really does announce itself — if you're prepared to stop and notice it.
Don't Forget to Check for Wear
Even the best quality garment isn't worth buying if it's reached the end of its life.
Always check:
• Under the arms
• Around the cuffs
• Knees
• Hems
• Zip function
• Missing buttons
• Shoes for sole wear
A tiny repair doesn't put me off. Nor does a bit of pilling (amazing how you can bring fabrics back to life with a de-bobbler machine!) or a missing button. A worn-out garment usually does.
One thing to be very careful of is checking for multiple small holes, especially on natural fabrics. Sometimes these can be a sign of moth damage, and while a few small holes are generally repairable, you don't want to inadvertently introduce moth larvae in to your house. Quick tip: anything you bring home secondhand, pop it in a freezer bag and give it a freeze for a few days, then hang it on the line to air, and that should ensure no unwanted 'friends' find their way in to your clothes!
Buy Clothes That Deserve a Second Life
One of the biggest mistakes I see is people buying something simply because it's cheap. We've all done it. It's only £3... It's only £5... But if it stays in the wardrobe unworn, it wasn't a bargain at all.
Instead I ask myself one question.
Would I still want this if it wasn't second-hand?
If the answer is yes, it's probably worth considering. If the answer is no...back on the rail it goes.
Treasure is Personal
The funny thing about treasure is that it looks different to everyone. My treasure might be a beautifully tailored wool jacket. Yours might be the perfect linen shirt. Or a cashmere jumper. Or a leather handbag in a perfect colour to go with so many clothes you already have at home.
The point isn't to buy the most expensive label. It's to buy the best quality you can find for your budget, and to find something you really love that suits you and your natural colouring, your lifestyle and your unique sense of style.
Because those are often the clothes that you'll still be reaching for years later.

Victoria's Treasure Hunter Tip
The best charity shop shoppers aren't the quickest. They're the most observant.
Slow down, scan the rails for a favourite colour or an interesting print.
Touch the fabric.
Turn clothes inside out.
Check the label.
Smell the leather if you have to! (People might look at you a little strangely, but I promise you'll get over it.)
Most importantly, don't shop for bargains. Shop for a colour and fit that's right for you. Shop for a fabric or print you love, and shop for something that will stand the test of time and still be a favourite in years to come.
Shop for treasure.

I'd love to know about your favourite second-hand find. Was it a designer bargain, a beautifully made coat or perhaps the perfect handbag? Leave a comment below and let's celebrate the joy of giving wonderful clothes a second life.
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- Tags: Buy Less New, Charity, Charity Shops, Clothes, Fabrics, Preloved Clothes, Second Hand Clothes, Second Hand Clothes Shopping Online, secondhand clothes shopping, Shopping, Slow Fashion, Sustainable Fashion, Sustainable Style, What to Wear
